Parks and Open Spaces

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Biodiversity Action Plan

• Biodiversity Action Plan
• Habitat Action Plans
• Allotments
• Grazing Marsh
• Hedgerows
• Lowland Heathland
• Parks and Open Spaces
• Private Gardens
• Current status
• Current factors causing loss or damage
• Current action
• Advisory
• Links with other Bexley habitat and species Action Plans
• Links with other national and local policies
• Table of objectives and actions
• Public involvement in allotments
• Reedbeds
• School Grounds
• Wetlands
• Woodland
• Species Action Plans
• Public Involvement
• Acknowledgements
• Appendices

Contact Details

• Parks & Open Spaces
  London Borough of Bexley
  Civic Offices
  Broadway
  Bexleyheath
  Kent DA6 7LB
• 020 8303 7777

Biodiversity in Bexley

About Bexley's wildlife

Bexley's Biodiversity Action Plan

Habitat Action Plans

Private Gardens

Aims

• To increase awareness of the value of gardens to flora and fauna.
• To protect and enhance the diversity of flora and fauna in gardens.
• To encourage sustainable gardening.

Introduction

• The traditional back garden with fruit trees, vegetable plot, lawns and flower borders may be the most common image of a typical suburban garden, but there are as many types of gardens as there are wildlife living in them. With the British countryside and urban wildlife habitats increasingly under threat, every garden, no matter its size, is a potential nature reserve.
• Large back gardens are seen as the most beneficial to wildlife but front gardens, large or small, can have a significant impact on both local landscape and wildlife habitation. The patchwork of rear and front gardens from small housing developments can be a haven for wildlife, and so too can the communal gardens of many flats and communal housing. The variety is endless and so too are the possibilities for improved biodiversity.
• A garden is a piece of land over which the owner can have nearly complete control - within the physical constraints of the site - a gardener can create any type of garden on his/her land and thus influence what wildlife and how much of it visits or lives in the garden.

Artist: Barry Small; © London Borough of Bexley

1. Current Status

1.1 Status Nationally

• There are approximately two million acres of private gardens in Great Britain - five times the size of Greater London.
• All land in the British Isles has been changed or manipulated to some degree by people and the private garden is at the extreme end of the scale.
• Gardens are, by definition, manmade landscapes. Most British gardens are intensively managed, thus taking them far away from their origins.
• All gardens can be designed, modified and managed to make them attractive to wildlife.

1.2 Status in Bexley

• The London Borough of Bexley is on the edge of the Greater London area. No figures currently exist for the area of private gardens in Bexley.
• Aerial maps show that, collectively, private gardens make up the largest habitat type in Bexley. Gardens are therefore of crucial importance to Bexley's wildlife, and this needs to be recognised and promoted.

2. Current factors causing loss or decline

As a result of lack of data for Bexley, it is not possible to establish if there has been a decrease in the total acreage of gardens in recent years although residential and infill development has caused a loss of gardens. The following may cause a loss or decline of habitat and quality of garden for wildlife:

• Use of garden chemicals
• Loss of hedges which were once common in front and back gardens
• Fewer compost heaps in the gardens and less dead wood left to rot
• Front gardens concreted over for off road parking
• The move away from traditional cottage garden species of flowering plants (that generally were favourable to wildlife) to more cultivated species.
• The move to low maintenance gardens, that generally have lower diversity of plants and structures and thus fewer opportunities for wildlife.
• The shift from growing vegetable and fruit crops in gardens, which once provided wildlife with food - especially in autumn and early winter.

3. Current action

3.1 Legal Status

• In Bexley's UDP the Council has a policy that back gardens of new developments should be of at least 13m². This was determined to be a suitable length to give privacy and to prevent overcrowding of new homes.
• The Council's general planning process covers the use of a garden and any unsuitable changes in use would be resisted.
• As a London Borough, Bexley will be influenced by policy from the Greater London Authority. The Importance of private gardens, especially large blocks of gardens, to urban wildlife was noted in the Mayor of London's Draft Biodiversity Action Plan (January 2001). A draft policy in the plan also suggested that certain large blocks of gardens form locally important habitats and should, in some circumstances, be protected as a block of habitat.

3.2 National Action

• A wide range of organisations are working to raise awareness of the important role that private gardens can play in conserving wildlife, and in helping people experience wildlife on their doorstep.
• A wide range of projects and initiatives has been launched around the Country. These include:
  • Dedicated wildlife gardening web-sites
  • Wildlife gardening leaflets produced by local authorities and wildlife charities.
  • Good bookshops and public libraries stocking a wide range of books and guides on wildlife gardening.
  • Many television and radio programmes offering good advice.

3.3 Local Action

• Bexley has a range of policies in the UDP that aim to protect existing gardens and to ensure adequate provision of gardens in new developments.
• Bexley has regular compost bin and water butt sales, to allow Bexley residents to purchase these items at considerable savings.
• Bexley has produced a colourful simple guide to help people compost successfully at home.
• The Council sells low cost peat free compost that has been made from green material collected from the Council's waste reception sites.
• Bexley has established two Flora for Fauna gardens (one at Hall Place and the other at Lesnes Abbey), which aim to demonstrate to the public how native plants can be used in a formal setting.

4. Advisory

• Major changes to gardens may require planning permission. If in doubt contact your local authority's planning department for guidance.
• You should also contact your planning authority for guidance if you are considering any of the following:
  • pruning or removing large trees (these may be covered by a tree preservation order);
  • potential disturbance of mains services such as telephone, water, gas and electricity;
  • large land movements which may have an impact on drainage;
  • changing garden areas into off street parking.
• If you need to use chemicals to deal with a major pest incident do contact your environmental heath department or a professional contractor.
• Bats, great crested newts, slow worms, nesting birds and many other animals are protected by law and must not be disturbed or harmed. If in doubt contact English Nature or your local wildlife trust.
• Consider the health and safety aspects in gardens, especially of water features.
• Do not plant trees, especially conifers or large shrubs too close to buildings or other structures, as this may lead to damage in future years.

5. Links with other Bexley habitat and species Action Plans

• Allotments
• Hedgerows
• School grounds
• Bats
• White-letter hairstreak
• Newts
• Song Thrush
• Stag beetle

Flagship species for the garden action plan: house sparrow, starling and hedgehog.

6. Links with other local and national policies

• Bexley Unitary Development Plan
• NWKCP "Free Trees" Campaign
• UK Built up areas and gardens habitat statement - Tranche 2, Vol. 2, p17
• London Biodiversity Audit, Vol. 1, HS1: Private Gardens, p133 - 136.
• London Biodiversity Action Plan, Vol 2

7. Table of objectives and actions

Objective 1: To increase the diversity and abundance of wildlife in Bexley's gardens (private and communal).

Target: Gain public commitment to monitoring wildlife in gardens and achieve an annual increase in those contributing records.

Objective 2: To encourage Sustainable Gardening.

Target: A 20% drop in unsustainable garden products bought in local garden centres by 2005.

Public involvement for private gardens

• Everyone can do their bit to help support wildlife in urban gardens.
• Bexley has two 'Flora for Fauna' gardens that are well worth a visit. One is at Hall Place, at the back of the Gatekeeper's Lodge and the other is in the formal gardens near the Rangers Office at Lesnes Abbey. These two gardens are planted with only native plants and aim to show how wild plants can create a formal as well as a more natural looking garden. Using native plants provides more food and shelter for wildlife. They are more resistant to pests and disease and attract more beneficial insects such as bees and butterflies.
• Visit Bexley's local libraries and good bookshops for a range of wildlife gardening books and wildlife guides. Look out for:
  • How To Make A Wildlife Garden, by Chris Baines
  • English Plants For Your Garden, by Jill Duchess of Hamilton.
• Leaflets, guides and practical advice available from:
  • London Wildlife Trust - 47 Great Suffolk Street, London SE1 0BS Tel:- 020 7261 0447
  • Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) The Lodge, Sandy , Bedfordshire, SG19 2DL Tel:01767 680551
  • Kent Wildlife Trust, Tyland Barn, Sandling, Maidstone, Kent, ME14 3BD Tel: 01622 662012
  • North West Kent Countryside Project, Project Centre, Mead Crescent, Dartford, Kent DA1 2SH, Tel:01322 294727.
  • Arboricultural Association. Ampfield House Ampfield, Nr Romsey Hampshire SO51 9PA Tel. 01794 368717
• Surf the World Wide Web for more information. These sites have useful information:
  • www.rspb.org.uk
  • www.nhm.ac.uk/science/project/fff
  • www.gardenlinks.co.uk/wildlife.php
• BBC, ITV and certain cable and satellite channels regularly have gardening programmes that focus on wildlife/organic gardening. The BBC's 'Countryfile' Programme (every Sunday morning) has regular features on wildlife/organic gardening.

Below are more general facts together with specific actions that most people can take in their garden.

• Gardens do not need to be an unkept mess to be beneficial to wildlife. Gardens with the highest diversity of wildlife will have to be well planned and managed.
• Small changes in parts of the garden can make all the difference, there is no need to replace all formal borders, lawns etc.
• Most wildlife does not do any harm to the average garden and many native plants and animal species provide beneficial services, such as pest control
• Try to refrain from using pesticides or other chemicals including artificial fertilisers in gardens; these will hurt wildlife and could encourage pests.
• Look to use disease and pest resistant plants/ varieties and use companion plants to draw away pests.
• Slug pellets are one of the most widely used pesticides in gardens. They can kill a wide range of creatures that prey on slugs and snails. Evidence suggests that, as the chemicals in the pellets wash into the soil, they harm micro and macro creatures living in the soil. Use alternatives such as pit traps, sharp sand and gravel.
• Avoid using peat in the garden, there are a wide range of alternatives on sale. Best practice is home composting.
• If growing fruit and vegetables, consider going organic.
• Provide food and shelter for wildlife at different times of the year, by establishing a variety of plants.
• Plant climbers over walls, fences and up the side of sheds and garages, for insects and birds.
• Use native British plants when possible as they support a diversity of wildlife.
• When buying native species, make sure that they are from a reputable source, and not taken from the wild.
• Take extra care of established shrubs, trees and borders. New planting can take many years to provide optimum benefit for wildlife
• Water carefully, Try to do so only in the evening, and only specific plants. Ask garden centres which plants require less water.
• Install a water butt.
• When planting larger shrubs and trees put a piece of pipe with holes down near the roots. By watering through this the water will get straight to the roots.
• Use a wide variety of feeders, tables and food for best results, and remember ground feeding birds.
• Variety is best. Where there is room these could include lawn or meadow areas, flowerbeds with deep cover, climbers and trees and shrubs and a pond or bog area
• Leave dead wood, standing (if safe) or in piles - a crucial habitat to many invertebrates.
• Plant traditional beech hedges or a mix of native plants, avoiding conifers.
• Where possible, try to have small meadow areas and densely planted shrub areas for nesting birds,
• Think about having a pond, remembering to add variety and to take into account the safety of children and small animals (such as hedgehogs). Try a bog garden if a pond is unsuitable (safer for children).
• Do not have fish in a wildlife pond - they will eat amphibian eggs and tadpoles.

Bird boxes

There are two main types of boxes to consider. The first and most straightforward is the tit box which has a hole into an enclosed box. The second and more problematic is the open-fronted box for Robins, Spotted Flycatchers and the like.

The problems they pose are very different. Any sort of cavity with a hole of the right size is likely to be occupied by sparrows or tits - whether it is good for the birds or not - whereas even the best possible open-fronted box may be ignored for years by all possible occupants!

Make or Buy?

• Millions of broods of birds have been reared in Britain in home-made nest boxes knocked together from spare wood. Designs are legion and many are published each year for National Nest Box Week in February.
• For tits, the thickness of the wood and the size of the base of the box are important. Contact National Nest Box Week for more information (see below).
• A key advantage of 'woodcrete' boxes is their excellent thermal properties. They keep the birds cool in hot weather and warm in the cold and prevent condensation inside.
• Materials without these properties - especially plastics, ceramics, thin wood and ply - make poor, even dangerous, nest boxes. Another advantage of 'woodcrete' boxes is that they are rot-proof, predator-proof and extremely long-lasting. Although they can cost up to twice as much as ready-made wooden boxes, they can potentially last ten times as long.

Choosing the right Schwegler Boxes

• There are over 50 designs of Schwegler boxes and each one mirrors an ideal nesting hole in shape and size. Since the range offers so many choices, here are tips to help you.
• The best general tit box is the free-hanging 2M which is supplied with a stainless steel loop to fix around tree branches. The birds seek it out and use it successfully. It is possible that they realise ground predators will have difficulty reaching it since it has no direct connection to the ground.

Mounting on walls and tree trunks

• In the absence of predators like squirrels and Pine Martens, choose the 1B. This comes with an aluminium nail which can be used in tree trunks without causing any harm, even after many years.
• If predators are present choose the 2GR with the jutting front and three holes to let in extra light and encourage the birds to nest at the back of the box. It really works, even on a reserve in Scotland where Pine Martens wiped out all the tits nesting in conventional wooden boxes.

What size hole?

• This is an easy question to answer. Any bird in a nest box is good news so a 32mm hole is the right choice for most boxes, being a perfectly acceptable size for all the tits, Nuthatches and Tree Sparrows.
• If you specifically want to encourage House Sparrows or are lucky enough to have Redstarts around try the 29 x 55mm oval hole.

Where to put them up?

• Most birds are not too fussy. Fixing on trees, walls and fences at 1.65m is fine. If you are putting up several boxes you can vary the height upwards if you wish.
• Free-hanging boxes should be fixed above 2m if they might otherwise prove to be a hazard to your head. In an open location it is generally best if the hole faces south-east to avoid the worst of the weather. It should not be in direct sunlight but this is not so important with Schwegler boxes since they are so well insulated.
• Having adjacent boxes facing in opposite directions may reduce unfriendly interactions between the birds. Never put them close to birdfeeders and birdtables because the feeding birds will be seen as a threat by the nesting birds.

How many?

• In a medium-sized garden in which natural holes are in short supply, it is worth putting up 4 or 5 boxes. If you find all your boxes are occupied, put up more to ensure there are always spare homes available.

Open-fronted boxes

• These are well worth trying but don't expect quick results. Too little is known about exactly what the birds are seeking to always get it right. And of course there are many different aspects to open-fronted boxes whereas the overwhelming attraction for tits is simply the hole!
• The 2H is a good bet. Fix it on a wall at 6' for Robins and higher for Spotted Flycatchers. Partially conceal it behind a climbing plant if possible. Where predators might be a danger the 2HW is a better choice; it is long and deep so that the birds build their nests at the rear.

Special boxes

• The many other types of Schwegler boxes are worth using depending upon your local circumstances. House Martin nests (9A and 9B) and Swallow nests (10) are a very good idea if the species are around. Fix the former under eaves and use more than one if possible since the birds are colonial; install the latter inside a garage, shed, barn or porch. You will find that these birds are often attracted to the nest boxes but build their own nests nearby.
• If you are in woodland I urge you to try the fantastic 'two chimney' Treecreeper box 2B which has worked so well for me. Try the Swift box (17) high up on the wall of your house if you are lucky enough to have these fantastic birds in the area.
• Finally the wagtail box (19A) is an excellent idea if you live in a mill or have fast running water in your garden. Such places attract Grey Wagtails like autumn wasps to sticky jam. Pied Wagtails who do not need to be beside water use the same box.

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